Using a cotton swab and acetone to clean the inside of the hosel.
Measure equal parts of the epoxy and mix thoroughly in a cup, let stand a few minutes and mix again. Remember, part "A" and part "B" is the right mix, not part "A" and part "A". This does not work! I know! I tried it!
For Graphite shafts - Although all of our heads come with the hosel pre-countersunk, to prevent shaft breakage we recommend you prepare a drill with a countersink bit, then drill the bit into the hosel and swirl it around to round out the bottom of the countersink. This will allow the glue room to protect the shaft from the edge of the countersink inside the hosel. (See Ben Richard's tips on page 14 for details.)
If a ferrule is needed, hand start it on the small end of the shaft, lubricate it with some glue and it should slide right on. (A ferrule is the round cap that sits on top of the hosel.) If not, use the rubber hammer to tap it on. Use the club head during assembly to set the ferule at the proper distance up the shaft.
Apply the mixed epoxy liberally to the end of the ferrule, shaft and the inside of the hosel. (On oversized driver heads, apply just enough glue to cover the tip but leave no globs; you should be able to see through the glue.) Insert the shaft and turn 180° a couple of times.
- On steel and graphite iron shafts you can hold the head in your hand and tap the butt of the shaft on the floor. Drive the head down onto the shaft to insure the shaft is properly seated against the bottom of the hosel. Make sure the logo of the shaft is where you want it before you let the glue dry.
- For woods, gently tap the head onto the shaft taking care not to drive the plug through. This is bad! If the plug is displaced, either the plug and/or pieces of dried glue will make the head rattle. Wipe all excess glue off.
Make sure the shaft, ferrule and head are clean.